Guidebook for Rome
Food Scene
Ottimo ristorante e pizzeria proprio a due passi da casa. Non avete voglia di cucinare? Affitadevi a Per Bacco.
16 personas locales recomiendan
Ristorante Per Bacco
23bc Via Oderisi da GubbioOttimo ristorante e pizzeria proprio a due passi da casa. Non avete voglia di cucinare? Affitadevi a Per Bacco.
Bar Tornatora Rome
27/29/C Via Oderisi da GubbioCaffe', cornetti, pasticceria
Before the Trastevere neighbourhood became Rome’s nightlife mecca, its warehouse-like spaces produced household essentials. One rare holdover is 100-year-old Biscottificio, where ladies in white caps mix flour, sugar and a few other ingredients into over 50 kinds of biscotti. The oven is one of the secrets to the taste and texture of the Biscottificio’s cookies. The cookies are loaded onto the belt that runs 16 meters long, ensuring an even baking temperature. Their consistency comes near perfection: their sweetness crumbles in your mouth. But more than the oven, the generations of Stefania’ family, who have preserved the traditions, make the cookies taste so good. Stefania doesn’t even remember a time when she started working at her family’s business. She says she began when she was born because as a baby her mom brought her into the shop to keep an eye on her as she worked. In 1920 Sesto founded the Biscottificio Innocenti, which was then passed on to his son Enzo, who paired with his wife Anna, and then it was passed on to Stefania, who is now assisted by her daughter Michela. The responsibilities of running a family business are mitigated for Stefania by the fact that the Biscottificio Innocenti is the only bakery of its kind in Trastevere and the knowledge that she’s continuing the tradition began by her grandpa. She takes pride in doing what no one else is doing, and her customers readily support her—especially when she bakes such good sweets. The biscotti (the general word for cookies in Italian) that most customers come for are brutti ma buoni (literally “ugly but good”). They are little brown pyramids of crispy and soft deliciousness. Other biscotti that fill the cases are covered in chocolate, filled with jam, and rolled in almonds. The Biscottificio also makes crostate (large tarts filled with jam), and seasonal sweets like panettone at Christmas and frappe around Carnival. Several of the recipes date back to Sesto’s time and have been modified by whoever’s in charge. Stefania laughs as she says, “If we don’t like one recipe or another, we just get rid of it and make something else instead.” Her face is framed by short hair, the perfect remedy for working near an oven during a Roman summer. Every morning the cookies are baked according to what is needed and if a holiday calls for a special treat. In the afternoon Michela arrives, and Stefania takes a break. “Not many people understand the seriousness of the work,” Stefania says. She’s referring to the idea that baking cookies and running a family business can sometimes be seen as a light-hearted task, as a way to fill the hours till the end of the day. But the existence of Biscottificio Innocenti proves just the opposite. It proves that a cookie shop can require the dedication of lifetimes, not only to the product and customers but also to an idea born one-hundred years ago. Unlike so many of us, Stefania’s passion for her job began when she was a baby smelling the sugar as it was emptied into the mixer. It is a passion she carries on today that she is passing down to her daughter and to her customers through her great cookies.
38 personas locales recomiendan
Biscottificio Artigiano Innocenti
21 Via della LuceBefore the Trastevere neighbourhood became Rome’s nightlife mecca, its warehouse-like spaces produced household essentials. One rare holdover is 100-year-old Biscottificio, where ladies in white caps mix flour, sugar and a few other ingredients into over 50 kinds of biscotti. The oven is one of the secrets to the taste and texture of the Biscottificio’s cookies. The cookies are loaded onto the belt that runs 16 meters long, ensuring an even baking temperature. Their consistency comes near perfection: their sweetness crumbles in your mouth. But more than the oven, the generations of Stefania’ family, who have preserved the traditions, make the cookies taste so good. Stefania doesn’t even remember a time when she started working at her family’s business. She says she began when she was born because as a baby her mom brought her into the shop to keep an eye on her as she worked. In 1920 Sesto founded the Biscottificio Innocenti, which was then passed on to his son Enzo, who paired with his wife Anna, and then it was passed on to Stefania, who is now assisted by her daughter Michela. The responsibilities of running a family business are mitigated for Stefania by the fact that the Biscottificio Innocenti is the only bakery of its kind in Trastevere and the knowledge that she’s continuing the tradition began by her grandpa. She takes pride in doing what no one else is doing, and her customers readily support her—especially when she bakes such good sweets. The biscotti (the general word for cookies in Italian) that most customers come for are brutti ma buoni (literally “ugly but good”). They are little brown pyramids of crispy and soft deliciousness. Other biscotti that fill the cases are covered in chocolate, filled with jam, and rolled in almonds. The Biscottificio also makes crostate (large tarts filled with jam), and seasonal sweets like panettone at Christmas and frappe around Carnival. Several of the recipes date back to Sesto’s time and have been modified by whoever’s in charge. Stefania laughs as she says, “If we don’t like one recipe or another, we just get rid of it and make something else instead.” Her face is framed by short hair, the perfect remedy for working near an oven during a Roman summer. Every morning the cookies are baked according to what is needed and if a holiday calls for a special treat. In the afternoon Michela arrives, and Stefania takes a break. “Not many people understand the seriousness of the work,” Stefania says. She’s referring to the idea that baking cookies and running a family business can sometimes be seen as a light-hearted task, as a way to fill the hours till the end of the day. But the existence of Biscottificio Innocenti proves just the opposite. It proves that a cookie shop can require the dedication of lifetimes, not only to the product and customers but also to an idea born one-hundred years ago. Unlike so many of us, Stefania’s passion for her job began when she was a baby smelling the sugar as it was emptied into the mixer. It is a passion she carries on today that she is passing down to her daughter and to her customers through her great cookies.
Why locals love it?
Filettaro is a local icon. They have been serving the best filetto di baccalà (fried fish) in the heart of Rome since the 50s. The secret (and it’s a real secret – they won’t tell you anyway!) is in the batter and the freshness of their fish. We love it!
Why you should visit it
Filettaro is a traditional Roman trattoria with a short list of dishes and great house wine from Castelli. It’s an old place that makes you feel as if you’re back in the 50s when all that was needed was some food and a jug of great wine. In summer they have tables on one of the smallest and most ancient squares in Rome by Santa Barbara Church.
Special tip Also try the “puntarelle” salad with anchovies and beans.
87 personas locales recomiendan
Dar Filettaro a Santa Barbara
88 Largo dei LibrariWhy locals love it?
Filettaro is a local icon. They have been serving the best filetto di baccalà (fried fish) in the heart of Rome since the 50s. The secret (and it’s a real secret – they won’t tell you anyway!) is in the batter and the freshness of their fish. We love it!
Why you should visit it
Filettaro is a traditional Roman trattoria with a short list of dishes and great house wine from Castelli. It’s an old place that makes you feel as if you’re back in the 50s when all that was needed was some food and a jug of great wine. In summer they have tables on one of the smallest and most ancient squares in Rome by Santa Barbara Church.
Special tip Also try the “puntarelle” salad with anchovies and beans.
The Roman-style pizza is crispy thin crust, heavenly, melting mozzarella cheese and just the right amount of tomato sauce.
One of Trastevere’s most famous pizzerias, Ivo’s has been slinging pizzas for some 40 years, and still the hungry come. With the TV on in the corner and the tables full (a few outside on the cobbled street), Ivo’s a noisy and vibrant place, and the waiters fit the gruff-and-fast stereotype.
125 personas locales recomiendan
Ivo a Trastevere
158 Via di S. Francesco a RipaThe Roman-style pizza is crispy thin crust, heavenly, melting mozzarella cheese and just the right amount of tomato sauce.
One of Trastevere’s most famous pizzerias, Ivo’s has been slinging pizzas for some 40 years, and still the hungry come. With the TV on in the corner and the tables full (a few outside on the cobbled street), Ivo’s a noisy and vibrant place, and the waiters fit the gruff-and-fast stereotype.
Felice a Testaccio is famous for tonnarelli pasta with cheese and pepper. A New York Times writer also thought about this dish when wrote that this is «the best trattoria in Rome» and «a Roman institution». The pasta is cooked at the perfect consistency, the lard is crisp but not burnt and there is the right quantity of pecorino cheese and the tomato sauce is thick enough. This fat has a good, tasty and almost old taste and the pinch of pepper makes the following mouthful lighter. This dish is worthy of the long wait and the fact that it is not easy to book a table. Since 1936 this trattoria is full both at lunchtime and dinnertime also if the mythical Felice Trivelloni died one year ago. Now it is managed by his son and grandson. In the kitchen there is the chef Salvatore Tiscione whereas in the room there are quick and professional young people. The ambiance has been renovated. The menu includes dishes which change every day. Monday: boiled hen; Tuesday: roasted anchovies; Wednesday: rigatoni pasta with Roman broccoli; Thursday: gnocchi with sauce; Friday: pasta with chickpeas or ray broth. The pasta in the carbonara style is available every day whereas the lamb – roasted with potatoes or proposed as a cutlet – is tasty and tender.
There are some good wines from Lazio.
You can finish your meal with a tiramisu.
189 personas locales recomiendan
Felice a Testaccio
29 Via Mastro GiorgioFelice a Testaccio is famous for tonnarelli pasta with cheese and pepper. A New York Times writer also thought about this dish when wrote that this is «the best trattoria in Rome» and «a Roman institution». The pasta is cooked at the perfect consistency, the lard is crisp but not burnt and there is the right quantity of pecorino cheese and the tomato sauce is thick enough. This fat has a good, tasty and almost old taste and the pinch of pepper makes the following mouthful lighter. This dish is worthy of the long wait and the fact that it is not easy to book a table. Since 1936 this trattoria is full both at lunchtime and dinnertime also if the mythical Felice Trivelloni died one year ago. Now it is managed by his son and grandson. In the kitchen there is the chef Salvatore Tiscione whereas in the room there are quick and professional young people. The ambiance has been renovated. The menu includes dishes which change every day. Monday: boiled hen; Tuesday: roasted anchovies; Wednesday: rigatoni pasta with Roman broccoli; Thursday: gnocchi with sauce; Friday: pasta with chickpeas or ray broth. The pasta in the carbonara style is available every day whereas the lamb – roasted with potatoes or proposed as a cutlet – is tasty and tender.
There are some good wines from Lazio.
You can finish your meal with a tiramisu.
“Visiting us is like going to the library. It’s not like you have a book in mind. You don’t always know what you want. It’s our job to stimulate your curiosity.” Alessandro
Walking through the doors of Volpetti is like entering Italian gastronomic heaven. Opened by brothers Emilio and Claudio Volpetti 40 years ago, this gourmet food store boasts hundreds of varieties of cheese, an awe-inspiring selection of cured meats, top quality oils, balsamic vinegar and condiments and much, much more.
64 personas locales recomiendan
Volpetti Salumeria
47 Via Marmorata “Visiting us is like going to the library. It’s not like you have a book in mind. You don’t always know what you want. It’s our job to stimulate your curiosity.” Alessandro
Walking through the doors of Volpetti is like entering Italian gastronomic heaven. Opened by brothers Emilio and Claudio Volpetti 40 years ago, this gourmet food store boasts hundreds of varieties of cheese, an awe-inspiring selection of cured meats, top quality oils, balsamic vinegar and condiments and much, much more.
On of my favorites in Rome, although the place has been there for 30 years. Excellent food and wonderful friendly service. Look at the menu, but the specials (which are many) are what you should concentrate on. They usually do pigeon some way, which is always good. Do try the parmesan flan with lettuce sauce (listed under vegetarian dishes) as a antipasto. Also, their big tortelloni with a runny egg yolk inside is fantastic. Don’t miss their apple cake, a sort of pudding, for dessert.
123 personas locales recomiendan
Trattoria Monti
13 Via di S. VitoOn of my favorites in Rome, although the place has been there for 30 years. Excellent food and wonderful friendly service. Look at the menu, but the specials (which are many) are what you should concentrate on. They usually do pigeon some way, which is always good. Do try the parmesan flan with lettuce sauce (listed under vegetarian dishes) as a antipasto. Also, their big tortelloni with a runny egg yolk inside is fantastic. Don’t miss their apple cake, a sort of pudding, for dessert.
Arts & Culture
laFeltrinelli Libri e Musica
427 Via Appia NuovaLibreria